Lindisfarne is called the Holy Island because it was here the civil parish of Northumberland was established and this island is said to be the center of Celtic Christianity. The island is small, measuring 3 miles east to west and 1.5 miles north to south. In 2011 the current population was 180 people. For such a small island, surprisingly there is plenty to explore while visiting.
We arrived on the island on a crispy windy morning to gray skies. The drive across the modern causeway was decorated with warning signs to stay on the causeway, check the tides times and watch the weather. In the past the island was only accessible at low tide by crossing sand and mud flats. Visitors have about a 5-hour window to visit the island. Despite all the warnings, on average 1 vehicle a month has to be rescued for being stranded.
The island boasts Lime Kilns, a Priory, and a castle to visit just to name a few of the main attractions. We came to see the castle. As we parked in the parking lot I could see the castle perched atop a volcanic mound called the Beblow Crag with the North Sea as the back drop.
It’s a nice little stroll to reach the castle or one can opt to catch the shuttle ride. We opted to walk. The salty air clears the senses and has a way of making a person feel alive. As we walk along towards the castle we have an old rock fence on one side and the North Sea on the other side. The seagulls were flying overhead crying out to make their presence known. The waves lapped gently at the shore with a mighty pull of the desire to roll up your pants and walk the coast line. But we trudged on up the hill towards the castle.
Lindisfarne Castle was originally built as a fort in the Tudor style in the 1550’s. It housed a garrison of soldiers who manned guns and watched for the enemy who never arrived which is one of the reasons the castle is still standing in good shape. In 1901 the owner of Country Life magazine, Edward Hudson, found the little castle and decided to turn it into a country home. Edwin Lutyens got the job of turning a Tudor fort into a home. The climb up the crag is 100 feet on cobblestone. Quaint, yes. Easy stroll, no! Cobblestone is hard to walk on! Huffing and puffing we reached the top! The view was amazing!
The castle was refurbished in the Arts and Crafts style with most of the features of the fort lost during renovations. However, if you know where to look (and you can with the handy little guide) signs can still be seen of the original fort.
The castle is small by standard castle size yet it has the characteristics of a castle with exposed stone walls, stone arched ceilings, and oak beams. While some of the larger castles seem cold and dark, this castle has a homey feeling. You could picture yourself living there. The best view is from the Upper Battery. I could imagine sitting up there watching a storm rolling in from the sea or sitting inside on the window seat watching snow fall.
Too soon it’s time to leave the little castle. I didn’t want to leave. The location was remote enough it made one feel it was the perfect place to spend a weekend and unplug. I wanted to explore the rest of the island but it will have to be a place I return to someday. The island has several B & B’s and cottages to rent for accommodations. I would expect the best time to explore is during high tide when all the day visitors have left.